Market Vendors: The Count

In my post “Where’s the Pasta?” I lamented the missing pasta vendor at the Sunday Market in L’Isle sur la Sorgue. This week I set out, yet again, to look for the illusive (and I’m now convinced non-existent) pasta stand. My search wasn’t a complete waste of time, however, because while searching, I decided to count how many of each type of vendor actually are here. The results are in – I know you’re just chomping at the bit for this crucial information. So, without further ado, here you go…

42 Clothing (Includes all types, fabrics, sizes except the socks and scarves)
24 Jewelry
22 Fresh Fruits and Vegetables
18 Scarves
17 Linens (Mostly table clothes and napkins, but I included bedspreads, curtains, and tea towels)
14 Leather (Belts, purses, wallets)
10 Sausage
9 Shoes (Men’s, women’s, children’s)
8 Cheese
7 Soaps
7 Rotisserie Chicken
7 Fragrance/oil (Tended to be little bottles of oils or sachet)
6 Garlic
6 Cutters (Slicers, dicers, knives)
5 Wooden gadgets
5 Tapenades
5 Pictures (Paintings or prints)
5 Misc. Decor (do dads, napkin rings, small trays)
4 Olives
4 Herbs
4 Cloth purses/bags
4 Toys
3 Lavender
3 Dried Fruit
3 Honey
3 Spices
3 Mushrooms
3 Hats
3 Watches
3 Olive Oil
3 Baked Goods
3 Honey
3 Nuget
2 Flowers
2 Rocks
2 Rugs
2 Sunglasses
2 Fabric
2 Pottery
2 Pizza
2 Wine
2 Books/CD’s
1 Jam
1 Knobs
1 Socks
1 Gel Fruit
1 Nail Polish
1 Fish
1 Snails
1 Cooked pig
1 Gingerale
0 Pasta

Total Vendors: 293

Just a few remarks about my method. My method: tick marks on a legal pad. In order not to make a spectacle of myself, I moved quickly through the crowd ticking away. In some cases, it was difficult to tell where one clothing stand ended and the next began. I gave a tick for the predominant product at each vendor. For example, the fresh vegetable stands sold garlic, but there were also stands selling only garlic. There were also stands selling scarves with other clothes. In this case I marked clothing and only counted the scarf category for stands selling only scarves. I think you get the picture.

I suppose the count is not entirely accurate, but it should give you a good idea about what to expect if you come to this Sunday Market.

BigEasy had a BigDay

While visiting the villages of Gordes and Roussillon, two must see ‘communes’ in the Provence region, BigEasy found a few places to hang about…

Another door, this time in Gordes. I just want to see inside.
Another door, this time in Gordes. I just want to see inside.
In Gordes, resting before the climb.
In Gordes, resting before the climb.
Awed by the view of Gordes.
Awed by the view of Gordes.
Wanted to help harvest the lavender at Abbaye de Senanque but it was too late.
Wanted to help harvest the lavender at Abbaye de Senanque but it was too late.
Roussillon Rocks!
Roussillon Rocks!

 

Another reason to use TripAdvisor, Wisdom of Crowds

James Surowiecki, in his bestselling book, The Wisdom of Crowds, states “The real key, it turns out, is not so much perfecting a particular method, but satisfying the particular conditions – diversity, independence, and decentralization – that a group needs to be smart.”

I stumbled upon Surowiecki’s book one afternoon while perusing the stacks of my favorite old haunt Borders Bookstore (I miss those days of just going out to look at books on a real shelf). As an adjunct instructor of philosophy, I was immediately captured by the title. After a quick read of the jacket summary, I added the little hardback to my growing tower of purchases that day. Who could ever buy just one book at Borders?

Wisdom turned out to be a great find for me. Surowiecki documented example after example, some case studies and some anecdotal, in several areas including, economics, politics, consumer preference, and psychology to support his theory.

Surowiecki argues for the wisdom of the independent collective over the wisdom of the individual expert.

After spending a whole semester presenting various topics in philo – sophia – Love of Wisdom – Wisdom about God’s Existence, Wisdom about the external world, Wisdom about the Mind or Self, Wisdom about what is the right thing to do, The Wisdom of Crowds was a fun way to end the semester.

So it makes sense, as I was enjoying the best meal I’ve had so far in France, the book came to mind. You see, the reason I was sitting in that particular restaurant last night was because I’d read the TripAdvisor reviews. The restaurant, Mistral Bistro Moderne, with 76 reviews, is ranked #2 of 104 restaurants in L’Isle Sur La Sorgue. The crowd in this case, 76 previous dinners, reported the following:

  • Excellent – 61
  • Very Good – 12
  • Average – 3
  • Poor – 0
  • Terrible – 0

The crowd was right. I enjoyed every bite of my joues de porc. The pork cheeks, braised  to utter tenderness were served with cocos de Provence (large white beans similar to cannellini beans), and a small mound of baked apple, all of course enveloped in a sumptuous sauce.  My husband’s Cabillaud Francais Frais (Fresh French Cod) was equally as flavorful.

IMG_0941

Imagine, on the other hand, a report that looks like this: from 88 reviewers

  • Excellent – 9
  • Very Good – 20
  • Average – 18
  • Poor – 26
  • Terrible – 15

This is a review of the restaurant we went to our first night in L’Isle. Since, the purpose of this blog is not restaurant bashing, I’ll keep them anonymous. (But if you really want to know check out Tripadvisor restaurant #79.)

Unfortunately since we were weary from travel and moving in to our little village house, we didn’t take the time to study things out. We simply walked along the canal and selected one of the many restaurants situated along the scenic waterway.

Guess what. The wisdom of the crowd prevailed yet again. This morning before writing this post I had to ask my husband what I’d eaten that night. It was so ordinary, I couldn’t remember. I had a chicken skewer. Not awful, just not that great. On the other hand, my husband’s meal was quite memorable. He ordered duck. You might have to use your imagination a bit here to appreciate the irony. Just behind us, paddling around in the canal were some very noisy ducks. So when my husband took his first bite and the ducks were simultaneously quacking; he looked up at me like he was going to barf. The meal that evening will forever be referred to as the infamous rubber ducky night. Tough, cold, rubber ducky.

Oh how I wish I had read Tripadvisor before dining that evening.

Surowiecki’s book acknowledges sheer numbers can’t tell us everything. With so much data overload, it makes sense for the more important decisions in life, to do extensive research and not simply count on what a bunch of people said on the internet. However, when it comes to travel and dining, I for one will accept the wisdom of crowd.

And, if you chose not to heed this advice, tough duck!

For a nice summary of The Wisdoms of Crowds, see: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Wisdom_of_Crowds 

 

 

Where’s the Pasta?

I know, I know. I’m in France not Italy.

My husband and I are spending 13 nights in L’Isle Sur La Sorgue, France. We rented a small ‘typical’ village house on VRBO in order to settle in one place for a while to write. We arrived on Saturday fully anticipating the beautiful canals aligned with restaurants, bakeries and shops, winding narrow bricked streets, and the famous Sunday market.

Acclaimed as the largest flea market outside of Paris, L’Isle hosts hundreds of vendors selling everything you can imagine – wait stop right there – I imagined pasta and couldn’t find any. I’m sure you are wondering, wait a second, aren’t you in FRANCE not ITALY? And, of course, you are right, I’m in France. If you had blindfolded me and dropped me into the market then told me to walk around, it wouldn’t have taken me long at all to figure that out. Every third stand is selling either goat cheese, tea towels with “Provence” scenes, or herbs de Provence. Well, maybe not every third stand, sprinkled in are sausages, scarves, olives, and garlic. Lots of garlic.

IMG_0924

IMG_0927

This is not to say I was disappointed in the market. It was definitely a cool experience. But, you see, I was on a mission. We knew many of the restaurants would be packed with market shoppers and other tourists on Sunday and many would be closed on Monday; so we were shopping for meals for Sunday and Monday. Since pasta is an easy fix, and since we were enjoying fish and meat prepared by French chefs, we opted for veggies, smoked sausages and goat cheese. And hoped to prepare some garlicky pasta. Having successfully found all but one of the ingredients we needed, we set out to find the hidden gem of a fresh pasta stand. Certainly among the hundreds of vendors there had to be one; certainly, I was just missing it. We circled and circled and couldn’t find it.

Oh well, the day was far from a bust. We ended up with lots of goodies pictured below. I did find a restaurant in the village that makes homemade pasta so we will go there tonight – now that I’m craving it. But, if anyone knows whether there is an elusive pasta stand in this legendary French market, please let me know. I’ll go back again this Sunday, and maybe I’ll get lucky.

IMG_0921
Some vendors were very friendly.
IMG_0923
So many choices. We picked kalamata with basil and garlic and a mildly spiced mix. Next Sunday, I’m going for spicy hot.
IMG_0928
This vendor was not as friendly, but I bought his product anyway. We opted for the 3-fer: smoked, fig, and chèvre.
IMG_0932
Some of the more aged goat cheese, my preference.
IMG_0933
Fresh goat cheese, great mixed in scrambled eggs.
IMG_0936
Doesn’t that look delicious!
IMG_0937
Wait, where’s the pasta?

BigEasy is Going Places

In the interest of utter silliness, let me introduce you to my favorite little backpack “BigEasy”. BigEasy is lightweight, fits my computer, and wears comfortably on my back. I inherited this little gem from my husband, Dr. Keith Peterman, a York College of Pennsylvania (YCP) chemistry professor, thus “Peterman” is embroidered on the front. Every year, YCP chemistry students and faculty attend a national American Chemical Society meeting held in various cities around the U.S. Dr. Bill Steel, YCP faculty, designed this logo, ordered the packs and distributed them to the YCP attendees. I fell in love with this one the minute my husband brought it home.

As we were departing for our trip to France, I sent a quick text to Bill informing him BigEasy was headed to far away places. Afterward, it occurred to me I should make a photo journal of BigEasy in all of these interesting venues. Now, I know this is not an original idea, but I have to say, it’s been really fun figuring out how to place the pack, watching the reaction of surrounding people, and viewing the photos at the end of each day.

Here are a few of the photos so far. Stay tuned for more of BigEasy’s travels. And a big shout out to York College Chemistry students and faculty. Where has your BigEasy been? Send me photos and if I’m totally impressed, I’ll post them on my blog.

Wondering what's behind this door.
Wondering what’s behind this door.
Wishing it was hanging on some higher metal.
Wishing it was hanging on some higher metal.

Can you find BigEasy in this photo?
Can you find BigEasy in this photo?
How about here? Can you spot BigEasy?
How about here? Can you spot BigEasy?
BigEasy with the Wall Man
BigEasy with the Wall Man

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_passer-through-walls
What would you do if you could be invisible?

BigEasy at Sacre Coeur
BigEasy at Sacre Coeur
BigEasy Knows what's behind these doors!
BigEasy Knows what’s behind these doors!
BigEasy on the walking path to Monet's house and gardens.
BigEasy on the walking path to Monet’s house and gardens.
Hanging with the flowers
Hanging with the flowers
BigEasy on the bridge above Monet's famous Lily Pond
BigEasy on the bridge above Monet’s famous Lily Pond

Pouvez-vous dire Provence?

In early July, as I tapped away on my laptop, my friend Cindy studied the cookbooks she’d discovered at the beach house we were renting. Whoever owns that house must love to cook as much as Cindy and I. Although we had planned on dining out for most of the week, Cindy was so excited about the recipes she’d been reading she offered to cook. I should also mention while inventorying the resident spices, she discovered a pretty little jar of saffron – sealing the deal. We would be dining in for the rest of her stay.   The cookbook most intriguing for her was “Peddling through Provence” by Sarah Leah Chase, 1995.

Cindy selected two recipes from that book: Tomato Soup Aux Parfums de Provence and Cauliflower a’ la Grecque. On the first night she prepared the cauliflower and created an original chicken dish to go with it. We seriously groaned with each delightful bite. I wonder what the neighbors were thinking since we were eating out on the deck. The cauliflower was smothered in an elaborate cheese sauce. For this recipe, you might just have to buy the book. However, Cindy’s chicken creation was over the top. Since she was experimenting, we tried to record approximately what she did.

Cindy’s Paprika Saffron Chicken Recipe

Olive oil to cover bottom of sauté pan
1 leek, diced
3 cloves garlic, minced
1 small onion, diced
3 chicken breasts, skinned and boned
paprika, salt and pepper
1/2 cup white wine
1 tomato, diced
1 teaspoon fresh minced rosemary
1/2 teaspoon fresh thyme
1/2 teaspoon saffron

The following day Cindy made a large batch of the tomato soup. And once again she added her own touch by making large crunchy french bread croutons. Since most of my experience with tomato soup has been Campbell’s with a grilled cheese, I couldn’t have imagined what leeks, fennel and orange zest would do to make this soup so irresistible. I was a little bit happy when she had to leave knowing there was a large pot half filled with the remaining soup…I slurped every last drop throughout the rest of the week.

I was grateful to Cindy for preparing the food. Normally, I’m the cook and it’s just so wonderful to have someone else prepare the meals. Seriously.

Before her departure back to the working world we purchased two copies of the cookbook on Amazon. I think it was only about six bucks. My book arrived several weeks ago, but I haven’t had much opportunity to look through it.

So guess what. I’m leaving for France tomorrow. Yep. I’ll be living in Provence for almost a month. I hope to post a few blogs while I’m there so stay tuned for that. Since I’ll be gone for so long, I wanted to have my good buddies over for dinner before leaving. And in the spirit of our pending departure, I decided to make it a Provence theme.

I prepared the following dishes from the Chase cookbook.

Roasted eggplant pistounade (pages 8-10)

IMG_0657

2 large eggplants, rubbed lightly with olive oil
1 can (15 oz) chick-peas, drained
3/4 cup green olives *
3 cloves garlic minced
1 roasted red bell pepper, seeded and coarsely chopped
1/4 c olive oil *
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
2 tablespoons capers, drained
1/2 cup rehydrated sun dried tomato halves, slivered
1/4 cup minced fresh parsely
1/4 cup slivered fresh basil
salt and petter
French bread toasted rounds for dipping

Preheat oven to 400° F. Line a roasting pan with aluminum foil.
Prick the oil rubbed eggplants in several places with the tip of a sharp knife and place them in the prepared pan. Bake, turning occasionally, until the eggplants feel soft when pierced, about 45 minutes. Let cool, then halve and scoop out the pulp. Discard skins.
Place the chick-peas, olives, garlic and roasted pepper in a food processor. Pulse the machine so that all ingredients become coarsely chopped. Add the olive oil and lemon juice and pulse briefly to incorporate.
Add the eggplant pulp and pulse again. *
Remove from the processor and put into large bowl. stir in the capers, sun-dried tomatoes, parsely and basil. Season with salt and pepper.
Serve at room temperature.

* My changes to her recipe. I used cheap olives from a can. She recommended Imported green olives such as Picholine. I used whatever olive oil I had, she recommended fruity olive oil. She recommended coarsely chopping eggplant, I pulsed it since the eggplant seemed stringy.

Pork and Apricot Ragout (page 152-154)

2 tablespoons olive oil
2 ounces pancetta or bacon diced*
2 pounds lean pork, cut into 3/4 inch cubes
1 medium onion, minced
3 cloves garlic, minced
2 cups dry white wine*
2 1/2 tablespoons tomato paste
2 tablespoons slivered fresh sage or 1 tablespoon dried, crumbled
Salt and pepper to taste
2/3 cup pitted and halved green olives*
1/2 cup coarsely chopped dried apricots

Heat the olive oil over medium-high heat in a Dutch oven or large stew pot. Add the pancetta and cook until crisp, 6-8 minutes. Remove from the pot with a slotted spatula and set aside to drain on paper towels. Add the pork to the fat remaining in the pot and sear until browned on all sides, 5-7 minutes. remove from the pot and set aside temporarily.
Add the onion and garlic to the pot and sauté until softened, 2-3 minutes. Pour in the white wine, and then stir in the tomato paste to blend well. Season with the sage, salt and pepper. Add the seared pork and any accumulated juices to the pot. Cover and simmer, stirring occasionally, for 1 1/4 hours.
Add the olives and apricots to the ragout, cover again, and continue simmering for another 30 minutes. Just before serving, sprinkle the ragout with the reserved pancetta. Serve hot.

Makes 4 servings.*

* Since many recipes call for small amounts of pancetta, I generally buy the 8 oz. pack and freeze the rest. It’s always good to have pancetta around to enhance a recipe.
* There seems to be a debate about whether to use expensive wine to cook with. I’m sure you’ve heard the saying “Don’t cook with wine you wouldn’t drink.” I haven’t found that to be necessarily true, so generally when cooking with white wine, I use about a $7.00 bottle of Chardonnay.
* Once again she recommended imported olives and I used the cheap canned version.
* Since I was having 6 people, I increased the quantities, but above are her exact measurements.

IMG_0653

IMG_0652

IMG_0651

IMG_0649

IMG_0654

IMG_0655

IMG_0656

Rosé Rice (page 200-201)

IMG_0659

2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 medium onion, minced
1 cup minced fennel bulb
1 1/2 cups long-grain rice*
2 cups dry rosé wine*
1 cup chicken broth
1/2 cup finely grated Parmesan cheese
salt and pepper to taste

Melt the butter over medium heat in a large, squat saucepan. Add the onion and fennel and sauté until quite soft, 5-7 minutes. Add the rice and stir to coat with the butter and vegetables.
Pour in the wine and the chicken broth; bring to a boil. Lower the heat to a gentle simmer, cover the pan, and cook until the rice is tender and all of the liquid had been absorbed, 20-25 minutes. Fold in the Parmesan, fluffing the rice with a fork, and season with salt and pepper.

*I used my favorite rice: Texmati RiceSelect Brand.
I don’t know much about rosé wine so I chose to use the rest of the white wine from the same bottle of chardonnay I used for the pork.